ISLANDS OF GUADELOUPE: Guadeloupe, Basse Terre and Grande Terre
Guadeloupe, 1 433 km2, 335.000 inhabitants, is made
up of two islands. Basse-Terre called “the island of beautiful
water” by the ancient Caribbean tribe Karukera, and Grande-Terre.
Fundamentally different from one another, the first mountaneous and
volcanic, rich with forrests, rivers and falls; the second, where
water is almost completely absent, stretches out along a strip made
up of calcium and coral deposits, is practically flat aprt from a
small section of Grands Fondsformed by a series of gulleys and sheer
hills. Grande Terre and Basse Terre are connected to one another by
a bridge that crosses the Riviere Salée, a sea passage of 3 km which
devides the two islands.
Basse Terre
Basse-Terre, derived its name from the
mariner’s tradition of naming their landings according
to the winds, was dwon wind at the time (locations up
wind were called capesterre). It is ironic given its
name, terra bassa, that it is the region which hosts the
volcano La Soufrière, a full 1 467 metres high, as well
as the other major elevated terrain in Guadeloupe, of
approximately 850 kmq,a region almost completekt covered
by forest.
The volcano La Soufrière with its forest
coverei peaks, dominate the island: a cathederal of
green which descends to the sea. The north east coast
stretches into cultivated hills, whilst the south west
coast the forst reached to the sea’s edge.
The central, mountaineous chain of volcanic origin runs
from south to north. Stretching from the the volcano La
Soufrière to the crest of Le Mamelles, which are a parto
of the national parks of guadeloupe: 17.300 hectares of
rain forest . The park, one of the most beautiful in the
Antilles, hosts more than 3 000 species of plants, a
hundred of which are varieties oforchids.The numerous
paths through the forest, the vulcano, the beautiful
waterfalls all make Guadeloupe a true paradise for those
who love the outdoors, trekking and canyoning. There are
beaches with magnificent water and a beautiful sea floor.
Besides the natural beauty of the island,
the other area of great interest for Basse-Terre is its’
history. An important patrimony of the island which
includes archealogical finds in Trois Rivière and
Plessis, testimony to the pre colombian civilisation of
Gualdeloupe, as well as fort Delgres, built in 1650 to
defend Guadeloupe from the English, the hindu temple of
Changy, the largest on the island, witness to the
islands important indian community.
There are numerous plaintations from the colonial period
which are open to the public as tourist attractions.
La
Route de la Traversée
A driving itinerary of about 35 km which
is truly suggestive. From coast to coast. The road
begins after Vernou (D23), diving into the forests to
climb Le Mamelles (615 m) before descending larly
beautiful during the periods when flamboyants are in
bloom, from Aprile to the end of August).
Numerous points of natural beauty and
interest cab be found throughout the park of Guadeloupe:
the falls aux ecrevisses, easily accessibile in few kms,
the Maison de la Foret, which apart from offerring a
thorough education into the flora and fauna of the
region is also a departure point for forest trails. Not
far from the Maison de la Foret the torrent Bras-David
i san ideal location to take a dip and freshen up after
a few hours driving. A diversion before scaling the west
coast will take you to Morne à Louis, where you will be
rewarded by a view of Basse Terre. Merely 1 km after
Morne à Louis, in the direction of Pointe à Pitre, the
Parc des Mamelles in the middle of the forest offers
trails that will lead you on a discovery of Guadeloupe’s
natural beauty, her flowers, animals and insects.
Grande Terre
Grande-Terre, much smaller than Basse
Terre, was mistakenly called this by the early settlers,to
who this seemed the larger island. Once, almost
completely dedicated to the cultivation of sugar cane,
thanks to its white sandy beaches and dry climate, today
the island si teh principal tourist center in Guadeloupe.
Gosier, where the largest proportion of
the islands’ hotels are located, Sainte Anne, small
borough famous for its beaches, and Saint François, one
of the most important tourism hubs Guadeloupe, represent
the areas most devloped for tourists, drawn by the
beaches and ideal climate.
The north of Grande Terre offers
splendid views and beaches privy to mass tourism, which
remains concentrated along the south coast. Travelling
across the countryside dotted with ruined wind mills you
will reach the north coast. The coastline runs from a
height of 84 metres at Pointe Vigie, falling to the
Atlantic Ocean. Port d’Enfer, at 25 km. from Le Moule,
is another incredible landscape, a tongue of ocean
reaches inland to create a lagoon with a coastline of
rocks and grass.
You could be forgiven for believing that Pointe à Pitre,
the most devloped city in Guadaloupe and which sustains
the economic activity of the region is the capital of
Guadeloupe.
The beaches of Grande
Terre
The most
reknowned beaches are to the south of Grande-Terre, but
those to the north are perhaps the most beautiful, less
visited and some still pristine.
Between Port-Louis (Plage du Souffleur)
and Pointe de la Grande Vigie there are several beaches
of note: l’Anse du Souffleur a few km from Port-Louis
(don’t stop at the beach where the pay for park
facilities are located, continue by car passed the
cemetery on the coast, the beaches become more natural
and less busy); TheAnse Laborde at 1,5 km. to the north
of Pointe Vigie, which unfortunatley has no shelter from
the sun. At the exit from the borough Anse Bertrand to
the south , the beach la Chapelle with palms a few
metres from the water’s edge is the most frequented.
The coast of La Moule is reknowned amongst the surfing
community at an international level.
Continuing south you will reach the Pointe des Chateaux
a few more bends and you’ll find the long beaches of
Grande Anse des Salines, ideal for bathing. To be
mentioned are Anse à la Gourde, Anse a l’Eau e l’Anse
Tartare, exceptional beaches that were popular with the
naturalists in the 70’s due to the location sheltered
from the ocean’s waves, truly beautiful beaches.
Whether you
are an export diver or are simply interested in finding
out more about this sport, Guadeloupe will offer you
sites that all beautiful and each uniques. Dive sites
range from the open ocean off the coast of Grande-Terre
to the tranquil waters of the Caribbean in Basse-Terre.
All sites are characterised by spectaular sea floor,
rich with life and offer experiences that are beyond
special. Guadeloupe hosts numerous dive clubs, all
instructors are fully qualified professionals and able
to issue both, the French (FFESSM or ANMP) or American (PADI),
dive qualifications.
La Soufrière
The
highest part of the Antille, at 1 467 m. above sea
level is also probably the wettest part, with almost 10m
of water a year! It will be difficult ot photograoh the
peak of Soufrière, always shrouded in cloud and mist.
The volcano is actually active but perhap the most
hospitable in the world, no craters or lava flows but a
landscape that is near luna with bizzarre rock
formations , fissures which seep gas and plateaus
surrounded by a rich savanna, filled with ferns, wild
mountain bananas, moss, lichen and vine. The numerous
fissures which weeze sulphur vapour and gasses that bear
witness to the activity of the “vieille dame”, as she is
afectionatley known by the locals .The views from La
Soufriere are truly exceptional, in good weather it is
possible to see Martinique and Dominica.You will need
about 2-3 hours to reach the the peak of the volcano
travelling on the Chemin de Dames and return to the
parking, to enjoy a complete experience of La Soufrière
you should budget 3-4 hours.
La Soufrière is not only a volcano. In
addition to its territory Chutse du Carbet, accessible
on the other side, Another nice trip is to La Citerne,
an ancient crater with a lake on the bottom. For the
more experienced traces are numerous but also very
challenging, especially for the often muddy terrain.
Rivers, waterfalls and
nature
Les Chutes du Carbet
On the east slopes of Soufrière,
at 1300 meters altitude, is the Grand River Carbet, who
with her three jumps form the highest waterfalls of the
Lesser AntillesThe most easily accessible and best known
is the second, with his 110 meters in height. The trail
is well signposted and is not more than half an hour
walk from the park.
You can see the moist forest: filodendri leafed giant
ferns high up to 15 meters, trees of 30-40 meters in
height which gommiers white and chestnut. The first
cascade of 120 meters is even more exceptional, but not
easily accessible for those who are not well trained (4
hours round trip), the trails are often unstable, and in
case of rain (frequent) are dangerous to the ground and
easily franabile for streams in the middle to cross.
The third waterfall is less spectacular 20 meters high
and is also less crowded. Easily reachable with a path
beginning at Petit-Marquisat (1 hour ride), is the only
one where you can swim. For safety reasons after the
earthquake of 2004 is not possible to reach the foot of
the other two waterfalls.
For lovers of nature, another is a beautiful hike Trace
du Grand Etang, a journey of about an hour you will
discover this great lake of about 20 hectares of
volcanic origin, which to many species of birds, fish
and crustaceans and unfortunately also colonies of
mosquitoes (attention leeches in the water!)
After Capesterre southbound
Saint.Sauveur up to turn right and continue for about 9
km. parking Bains Jaunes, take the path Pas du Roy
For the third waterfall, after Capesterre, heading
south, turn right onto the D3 towards Routhiers, past
the village to reach the end of the road.
The waterfalls of the river Moreau
At a hundred meters height, these are
just as beautiful as those of Carbet, surrounded by
thick green forest. After about 2 km from the traces in
the jungle trail forks to the right until you reach the
waterfall of Ravine Mangle, keeping to the left will
reach the most spectacular waterfall of Racoon
RavineUnfortunately, after the earthquake of 2004 which
caused major landslides the traces is no longer viable.
Inquire at the office dell'ONF, tel. 0596 992899 if the
route has been restored. Rather challenging journey to
the ground muddy and tumultuous rivers to cross.
At Douville, 10 km north of Goyave take the forest road
for about 10 km to reach the car park, from there on
foot in the jungle, about 5 hours and go back.
La Réserve Grand
Cul-de-sac Marin
La Réserve Grand Cul-de-sac Marin, founded in 1987, is
the natural park of Guadeloupe, protects 2115 hectares
of sea and 1622 hectares of mangrove forest along the
coast and the large lagoon that separates Grand Terre
from Basse Terre. Exceptional site for its ecosystem,
not just in Guadeloupe but also in all the Caribbean, is
a wonderful area to visit for its wild islands in the
lagoon protected by a coral reef of more than 20 km and
its mangrove forests. The whole area is strictly
regulated, organized tourist activities are prohibited.
Ilets within the reserve, considered to be beautiful
equal to the Maldives, have the most diverse names Fajou
Christophe de la Biche, Mangue Laurette and ilet à de
Carénage.
The ilet Caret, much further from the coast and out of
the reserve, is a destination for many excursions and
trips. Try to be there without the crowds after 1600 to
truly enjoy this little paradise. The locality of
reference from which to explore the reserve of Grand
Cul-de-sac Marin is Sainte-Rose, where you will find
some proposals on the seafront, excursion in motor boat,
rental kayak.
Pointe à Pitre
Capital of
Guadeloupe, along with neighboring municipalities, and
Abymes Gosier, form a conurbation of some 100,000
inhabitants, coming from no one has the impression of
being on a Caribbean island. The highway traffic through
industrial areas will see shopping centers, large
business centers. It was not until reaching the center
of Pointe à Pitre to find the atmosphere of cities
Creole Caribbean.. Although it has been assailed
construction and traffic, the city has managed to keep a
typical single Caribbean and beautiful houses Creole.
To visit the museum, which occupies Shoelcher a
beautiful Creole house of 1887 in rue Peynier.
The municipal museum Saint-John Perse in rue Noziéres is
located in the most beautiful colonial dwelling Pointe à
Pitre, built by the famous French architect Gustave
Eiffel in 1870.. The museum is dedicated to the poet and
proposes a reconstruction of the home of the late 1800s.
The two museums are located in the center of the old
quarter of the port, which lends itself to a stroll
among the shops and food retailers everywhere.. The
market colored sea on board in Place de la Victoire trip
palm trees and the Sainte Antoine at the corner of rue
Peynier and rue Frebault, one of the most authentic of
Pointe à Pitre, the church of Saint-Pierre et Saint-Paul
with the market for flowers at the foot of the pavement
offer a pleasant view of life in the Antilles. Despite
the difficulties of traffic and parking may want to
visit Pointe à Pitre in the morning, when the hectic
day, the more true that during the afternoon, more
sleepy.
The ilet of Gosier
In the town of Gosier, which
takes its name from the large pelicans that inhabit the
lagoon, one of the major tourist centers of Guadeloupe
with the largest concentration of hotels and nightclubs,
there is this small island with a lighthouse.. A small
corner of paradise during the week, a few steps from the
hotels.. Pier on the beach in Gosier, wharf on the
right, 6 euro return on yole fishermen. During the
weekend is very busy.
Les Grands Fonds
The Grand Fonds territory is a surprising fact of a
chaotic succession of valleys and mornes encased in
limestone plateu between Sainte Anne, Les Abymes and La
Moule. Guadeloupe in the history of this region was
hiding and shelter to many aristocrats to flee the
massacres of the French Revolution. Blancs-called
Matignon, the name of the location of the first
settlement, there is still a small farming community
that has survived consanguinity.
The last baobab
of Guadeloupe with his impressive body is in the
vicinity of the village Grands-Fonds.. It's worth a trip
by car, provided they do not get lost in this labyrinth
of nature that recalled the green Basse-Terre.
Les Ilets de Petite
Terre
Petite Terre, a natural reserve, is a micro coral
archipelago located between La Desirade and Les Saintes,
consisting of two islands, Terre et de Bas Terre de
Haut. A little paradise inhabited only by two guards and
the iguanas, Petite Terre is accessible by hiking Saint
François daily on the island of Guadeloupe, and the goal
of sailing boats that offer day trips, to avoid weekends
and in the Easter weekend.
Visititing Basse Terre
A wild nature, exuberant and beautiful
beaches, some look as if they are postcards. Easy access
for sports: water, mountain and river. Beautiful dives.
Many places to visit both historic and natural.There are
numerous villages and towns where the car stop and make
four steps.
Sainte
Rose
This town is dedicated to sugar cane cultivation. It’s
fisherman’s port is pretty and lively. It is a departure
point ideal for excursions to Grand Cul-de-sac Marin.
Approximately 5km from the hills, the sulfuric waters of
Sofaia from where numerous trekking trips depart; the
Rum Museum; the Domain de Severin distillery.
Deshaies
Once dedicated to the cultivation of coffee and of
cotton, today Deshaies is a quaint fisherman’s village
and the touristic center of the north of Basse Terre.
Deshaies is well known for its beautiful beaches and
diving. The Botanic Garden also deserves a visit.
Pointe Noire
Point Noire and Bouillante were the most isolated towns
of Guadalupe up to the ‘50s, until the road to Deshaies
was built. The road of the Traversée was constructed 10
years later. The isolation of Pointe Noire contributed
in keeping intact the Creole Heritage. The history of
Pointe Noire is tied to the cultivation of coffee and
thanks to prestigious essences and wood, also
cabinetmaking. Today Pointe Noire is still considered
the wood capital of Guadalupe. The Cafeterie Beausejour
at Acomat, an antique coffee plantation, today a museum,
the Orchid Park at Trou Caverne, the Maison du bois, La
Maison du Cacao and the Case à Vanille are all a must to
visit.
Bouillante
Founded in the XVII centrury, it’s one of the most
antique hamlets of Guadalupe. It takes its name from the
numerous boiling water sources (approx 80°C) which can
be found on all the territory, even in the sea. Today
this natural resource is used to create electricity. All
year, millions of tourists visit Malendure with the
Ilets Pigeons and it’s numerous diving spots.
Vieux Habitants
An authentic hamlet, one of the oldest of the Island. Of
great interest is the XVII century church. The hamlet
was dedicated to coffee cultivation, still today there
are 3 in the area. A must to vist: the museum of Cafè
Chaulet, the home of La Grivelière, the plantation of
Café Vanibel.
L’Habitation
cafetière La Griveliere - Vieux Habitants
La
fabrique de la paroisse Saint Joseph des Vieux Habitant,
now classified historical monument, a
habitation was created in 1700 by monks missionaries who
converted to the production of coffee with the arrival
of 3 plants from Paris in 1726. One of the testimonies
of the best preserved of colonialism, the habitation,
once dedicated to the production of coffee, vanilla and
cocoa keeps the water mill, la maison du maitre, the
homes of slaves and is now a museum.
. Follow the signs from Vieux Habitants for about 5 km
in the forest. Closed in September and the first week of
October
We point out to the distillery Longueteau, the
distillery Reimonenq, the museum of rum in Ste Rose.
Basse Terre
The administrative capital of Guadalupe, in 1643, it was
the first city to be founded. Developed on the sea and
dominated by the mountains and the volcano of Soufriére,
it is a lively city and full of character. The
distillery of Bologne produces one of the best white
rums of Guadalupe.
The Fort Delgres
On the border with the town of Basse-Terre, the Fort
Saint Charls, created to protect against attacks, the
British former capital of Guadeloupe and ships in the
bay in front of the mouth of the river Galion, renamed
Delgres Louis in 1989 in memory of Colonel mulatto who
fought against the first abolished slavery in 1794 and
then restored after eight years, dating back to 1650.
National monument since 1977, stands out as one of the
most beautiful examples of military architecture in the
Vauban, for its size and excellent state of its
buildings and defensive structures.
The ramparts dominating the city of Basse-Terre with
guns, a large renovated barracks at the heart of the
military, the tank built in 1702 by Père Labat, the
prison and the soldiers' cemetery where lie the remains
of the famous admiral Gourbeyere governor Guadeloupe
from 1640 to 1634 provide a walk back in time.
Free admission.Open from 8 am to 16.30.. From the city
center, the first right after the post, then left.
Parking outside the strong (do not leave anything in the
car), easily reachable on foot from the center. Saint Claude
At 500mt above sea level, Saint Claude is a pleasant
town surrounded by forest and at only 6km from Basse
Terre. A visit here is worthwhile just to admire the
beautiful villas of the last century built by the
Guadalupese bourgeoisie to taking advantage of the mild
climate.
The roches gravées - Trois Rivières
Dated the 300 / fifteenth century, the
rocks are carved one of the few traces of the
pre-culture in the Antilles. Among the many volcanic
rocks as far as Trois Rivières with the explosive of the
massive La Madeleine, the Arawaks were carved and
engraved signs and anthropomorphic figures of about 18
rocks around the archaeological park of Trois-Rivières.
This tropical garden of 1 hectare, in addition to host
roches gravées, is also very beautiful to visit the
picturesque route.. One of the most famous rock is at
the Museum of Natural History in New York. To reach the
park, Le parc des Roches Gravee ARCHEOLOGIQUE in
Trois-Rivières are signs, however, towards pier. For
information tel. 0590 997759 0590 997759
Currently the park is closed for restoration.
Capesterre-Belle-Eau
This town is mainly agricultural, dedicated to banana
production and represents the most important Indian
community of Guadalupe. The waterfalls of Carbet are the
most important tourist attraction of the area. Also of
interest is the Longueteau distillery.
The cemetery of slaves - Capesterre
Not far away from Capesterre, an ancient
place of burial of slaves where we find some twenty
mounds anonymous decorated with typical shells of lamb (Strombus
gigantis), some graves are decorated with plants
green-white calls neiges (snow), others with flowers,
but all are geared towards Africa.
At 1 km. North of the river after Capesterre Capesterre
to take the road into the earth to reach the
Habitation-Bois Debout, go right.. After a few tens of
meters, walk in the woods south. The cemetery is about
ten meters.
The Hindu temple
Traveling in
Guadeloupe will see numerous tombs Hindus, especially in
Grand-Terre. But the temple of Indian polychrome Changy
dedicated to the goddess Mayinmen, a few km. da
Capesterre, is the largest and most important of
Guadeloupe. The arrival of the first Indians dating to
the mid-1800 to "replace" the work of slaves in the
fields of sugar cane, and gave birth to the Indian
community now estimated at about 60,000 people,
concentrated mainly Capesterre Belle-Eau, Le Moule ,
Petit-Canal, Port Louis, which once were indeed
important areas for the production of sugar cane.
. Inside the temple is not accessible. Ceremonies on
Saturday and Sunday.
On the N1 at about 3 km. North of Capesterre.
Visiting Grande-Terre
Long, white and beautiful beaches
with turquoise lagoons protected by coral reefs. Even
though modernization is all present at Grande-Terre at
St. Francois, to the north you can admire the sugar cane
plantations. Numerous restaurants and a lively night
life enhance the touristic area of Gosier, Sainte Anne
and St. Francois, with a selection of sports both water
and land for the day time.
Le Fort Fleur-d’Epée at Bas
du Fort - Gosier
The
largest fortress ever built in Grande-Terre. Built from
1750 to 1763 on an octagonal base, was a strong
protagonist of naval battles and the British fleet
occupied for a short period in 1794. Abandoned in 1817
after the end of maritime rivalry between France and
England, today, after an excellent restoration, the fort
is open to the public occasionally hosts exhibitions. To
visit the fortifications with the view of the bay, the
powder magazine and the underground tunnels. Easily
reached from Bas du Fort on the way to Gosier. Open
daily from 9am (10 am on Monday) to 17th Free admission.
Sainte Anne
A lively touristic location well known for its
breathtaking beaches. A delightful sea front with a
cheerful market along side of the beach and a number of
lolò restaurants.
Saint
François
From a fishing
village, founded in 1683 by a Capuchin mission, has
become one of the most developed tourist areas of
Guadeloupe, with its luxury hotels, golf 18 holes and
its navy has not forgotten its agricultural vocation. A
few years after the abolition of slavery was imported
workers from India to replace the work of slaves in the
fields and in manufacturing. This migration has the
largest Indian community of Guadeloupe. Travelling in
the countryside it will not be difficult to see the
colorful flags of the tombs or the dazzling Hindu
cemetery a few hundred meters from the beach to the
west-Raisins clairs.
Strong tradition of farmers in Guadeloupe which attracts
many spectators in the lands of Saint-Francois and not
only are les concours de boeuf tirant. Winner is the
race horse that can in the shortest time to reach the
top of a climb of 200 meters with a heavy tank from 1 to
2.5 tonnes to pullThese competitions are organized from
May to December in almost all the municipalities of
Grande-Terre. Find the office of tourism.
La Pointe
des Chateaux
On the way out of Saint Francois going along 10km of
road and following beautiful beaches and “cricche” you
arrive at Pointe de Chateaux. Because of its dramatic
scenery it’s of the most visited locations of Guadalupe.
There are a number of restaurants and lolò in the area.
Le Moule
On the Atlantic
coast, Le Moule is one of the oldest towns of Guadeloupe.
Founded in 1680 under the name of Portland was a very
active port until the beginning of the twentieth century.
In 1700 it became the main commercial port for the
export of sugar and rum produced in the Grande-Terre and
took the name of Le Moule. Precisely for this reason
becomes the scene of naval clashes with the British.
Anchors will notice that the entrance of the port were
intended to protect ships entering and leaving.
The Distillery Damoiseau
Surrounded by fields of sugar cane in Bellevue in the
municipality of La Moule is an old distillery open to
the public that produces one of the best rums Guadeloupe
..
Free visit to the distillery and property. Friendly
service and the public tasting of rum.
Morne à l'Eau
Passing Morne a l’Eau to Rache the North of the Grande
Terre (Anse Bertrand, Port-Louis), take note of the
cemetery that seems a large three-dimensional chess
board with the tombs decorated with black and white
tiles.
Port Louis e Anse Bertrand
The first dedicated to fishing, the second to the
cultivation of sugar cane and cotton, they are both
tranquil towns and are renown for the beauty of their
beaches.
Pointe de la Vigie
The northern most point of Guadalupe, a 84mt high
limestone cliff overlooking the ocean from where you can
enjoy an incredible panorama. On a clear day you can see
Montserrat, 70 km to the west and Antigua, 80km to the
north.
Now it is taken for granted, the best
way to move is to rent a car GuadeloupeThe island is very large,
the points of interest and beaches are far from each other and
the holidays are always too short to travel to the relaxed
rhythms of public Guadeloupe.
Several bus companies departing from Pointe à Pitre and
Basse-Terre connect all municipalities with frequent stops also
in fractions. The bus timetables are on average between 5:30 and
20:00 from Monday to Saturday, on some routes (Pointe à Pitre
Basse-Terre, Pointe-à-Pitre Deshaies for example) the service is
active on Sunday schedules reduced.
Hitchhiking is in use, but always choose carefully and not ever
at night. Not recommended for women.
Guadeloupe in transit
To reach the islands
of Guadeloupe coming from Europe you have to spend a night on
the island to wait for the departure of the ferry the next
morning. If your holiday does not include a stay in Guadeloupe,
but only on the islands of Les Saintes, Marie-Galante and
Désirade, think, however, reserve the first night in a hotel and
transfer airport / hotel / station at sea. For the return will
be more comfortable, ferry from the islands in the morning you
have the time to reach the airport to leave the comfort of the
end of the day.
Notes
For trips on the nature or the Soufrière recommend attention to
the weather, when it rains the paths of streams
el'attraversamento becomes very dangerous. Wear shoes and bring
something to protect you from the rain